I was desperate in Gainesville. A college town stacked high with Gator tradition. I was sure there would be all manner of joints. Wrong. All manner of franchise fast food.

A call to the features desk at the Gainesville Sun saved the day. They pointed me to Louis Lunch. The other Louis Lunch, not the one bordering the Yale campus that may have invented the hamburger.

Gainesville's Louis Lunch has been around almost as long - since 1928. It was started by Louis, who lived to be 106. His son, Tommy, runs the place now, going strong in his 60's.

Louis Lunch fries their burger in oil, in a frying pan. Same as Dyer's in Memphis, except they change their oil daily. The burger gets a crisp dark brown rim.

I went for the Juicy Burger. A juicy burger is their regular burger topped with onion, lettuch, tomato, relish, ketchup, mustard and mayonnaise. Puts a Whopper to shame. Washed it down with an old fashioned chocolate malted.

Louis Lunch used to be in the center of downtown Gainesville. Used to be. Now it's on the outskirts. They've added a drive through window. Other than that, nothing has changed.

February 2006