It's called the Beacon Light Tea Room because they're across the road from the long-gone airport beacon at the long-gone airport. About 50 miles outside of Nashville - a short drive for some of the best fried chicken and the best biscuits in Tennessee.

I was there for Sunday dinner. Christian music on the sound system. Tables full of three and four generations of family. The place was packed except for one table - set for eight. I resisted. He insisted. Rural southern hospitality. A three top opened up a few minutes later and I was glad when the waitress moved me. The restaurateur in me couldn't abide just one person at a table for 8 on a busy Sunday afternoon.

The chicken is pan fried and perfect. Half a chicken - tasty crisp on the outside, moist and flavorful inside. Green beans with bits of ham in them, buttered corn, a cup of gravy and a basket of biscuits. I love Sunday dinner in the South. For desert, refrigerator pie. Sweetened cream cheese, condensed milk and layers of pecan and coconut. Took care of my weekly sugar allotment but worth it.

8/10/2003