A. P. J. stands for Arthur, Paul and James - the three guys who opened the place in 1920. Jimmie has owned it for the past 22 years.

The first thing Jimmie asks after laying a plate of Texas Weiners in front of you is, "How do you like the sauce?"

Jimmie is proud of his sauce. "People come to me from the place in South Philadelphia - they think we're the same - and they say what's a matter with their sauce. No taste. I tell them sauce has to be spicy."

First time in I got a couple of Texas Weiners. A Texas Weiner is a split and grilled hot dog served with sauce, mustard and chopped raw onion. Second time in I noticed a couple of fish cakes sitting by the grill. I figured I'd have a combo, like at Levis' or Johnnie's Hots. Something got lost in translation. I got a plate with a Texas Weiner on one side and a fish cake served Texas Weiner style on the other. Took a few bites of each, then discarded one bun and made my own combo, squashing the fishcake on top of the hot dog.

October '04